An evening in Naples
A paper tablecloth here, a starched cloth napkin there. Between these two images lies the full spectrum of Italian cuisine.
A sign on the façade – that’s usually all a restaurant reveals from the outside. What lies in store inside depends on the name – and the difference ultimately shows up on your plate and on the bill. Ten types of restaurant that Italy has to offer – and how to recognise them.
1. The Trattoria
Usually a family-run business, often with the same family at the helm for three generations. The daily specials are written on a chalkboard, the tablecloths are made of paper, and the prices are fair. If the car park is full of cars with local number plates, you’ve come to the right place.
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2. The Osteria
Originally, it was simply a place serving wine. Today, it usually includes a small kitchen serving a limited but well-prepared selection of dishes. Even for Italians, it is often unclear where the osteria ends and the trattoria begins.
3. The Ristorante
Things get a bit more formal here: cloth table linen, an extensive menu, and trained staff. Suitable for a birthday celebration or a romantic dinner for two, but less so for a quick lunch.
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4. The Enoteca
A wine bar with a small kitchen and a wide selection of wines. A plate of salumi, some cheese to go with it, a glass of wine – and there you have your aperitivo.
5. The Pizzeria
Stone oven, long proving time, genuine craftsmanship. There’s a world of difference between soft Neapolitan pizza and crispy Roman pizza. The hallmark of a good pizzeria: the crust, tall and light, with those characteristic dark spots.
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6. The Agriturismo
A farm with a kitchen, usually set away from the main roads. The menu features whatever is grown or grazed on the farm; there is rarely a set menu. Booking is essential.
7. The Rosticceria
The place to go for roast chicken, porchetta and baked potatoes to take away. Perfect for a spontaneous picnic on the beach or in the park.
8. The Tavola Calda
A heated counter with ready-made meals, usually found in towns and cities. Lasagne, parmigiana and stuffed courgettes are on display and are reheated.
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9. The Paninoteca
Open sandwiches made to order, selected from a display case featuring mortadella, stracciatella and pickled vegetables. The perfect lunchtime snack when you’re short on time.
10. The Sagra
Not a fixed venue, but an open-air festival, usually dedicated to a single product: the Truffle Sagra, the Wild Boar Sagra, the Chestnut Sagra. Plastic plates, beer benches, recorded music – often the best food of the whole trip.
