Fine sand, big shops: Puglia's beaches before the takeover

An unspoilt beach near Gallipoli

From our editorial team

In recent years, Puglia has become what the Tuscany in the 1990s: the great dream of the south. Whitewashed villages, turquoise-coloured sea, trulli, olive trees - and the feeling that time passes a little more slowly here. The idyll is in danger.

The region has experienced a tourism boom in recent years - with increasing international demand, new flight connections, a growing range of hotels and global interest. Arrivals from abroad alone have increased by 22 per cent. This makes the coastline extremely attractive for international investors who want to secure the best locations now - before tenders become systematic and public.

• Favourite place Tuscany - and what's really behind it
• The 60-second quiz: How quickly can you recognise Italy?

Virgin coast attracts investors

Another factor that Apulia interesting for investors: There are many stretches of coastline in Puglia that are not yet over-regulated, making it an easy target for large-scale concessions.

Regions like Liguria or Emilia-Romagna have long been more densely built up - there is still space available in Puglia. The run on Puglia's beaches - or rather for the rights to them - has really picked up speed this year.

Apulia's dream coast

Ad

🇮🇹☀️ Perfect for your beach day in Italy:
This super large, sand-free Beach blanket (210 × 200 cm) from SKYREH accompanies you relaxed to the sea. Soft, light, water-repellent - fancy a dolce vita on the beach? ➔ [Discover here at Amazon]

Fight for the "concessioni balnerai

While most holidaymakers just want to know where the most beautiful Lido or where to find the best focaccia, the administrative level raises completely different questions. In Italy, the beaches belong to the state - their use is regulated by so-called "concessioni balneari".

These concessions have been automatically renewed for decades, and many beach operators have grown attached to "their" section for generations. But now there is movement in the sand - and not everyone will stay.

The EU gets involved - and Italy must react

The current development has been triggered by the EU's Bolkestein Directive, which calls for competition in the use of public land. Italy has delayed its implementation for years. But now, under growing pressure from Brussels and with a view to possible fines, regions such as Puglia are drawing up new procedures. And these could change many things.

This is because the new tenders are increasing interest from outside: large investors, international hotel chains and tourism holding companies are entering the market. They scent the big business - and generally offer more money, more promises and a more "premium concept" than the previous operator families.

• The big Mangiare quiz: How good is your Italian flavour?
• Five Italian everyday rituals that make life better

Three small places symbolise a big problem

This is currently particularly evident in two coastal towns that are outside Apulia hardly anyone knows: Castellaneta Marina on the Ionian coast and Torre Pozzelle, an unspoilt section near Ostuni. Both locations are not necessarily Instagram hotspots - but that is precisely what makes them attractive to investors. If you get in now, you can secure the best locations before the hype starts.

In Castellaneta Marina, several lidi that have been in operation for many years are about to close. Their licences are expiring and the municipality is preparing new tenders. Many operators do not know whether they stand a chance against well-funded competition. The frustration is great, as many of them have invested in infrastructure for years.

The case of Torre Pozzelle is even more drastic: Here, a traditional Lido which had been family-run for decades. The new operator: a company based outside Puglia with a stylish concept. The surroundings? Still gorgeous. The atmosphere? Different.

When the beach becomes a commodity

What is happening here is not an isolated incident. It is the harbinger of a change along the entire Apulian coast. Free access to the beach, which is actually guaranteed by law in Italy, is being styled, portioned and monetised in many places. And this is not only a problem for locals, but also for tourists.

It's not just the sea that makes Puglia special. It is the small Lidothat looks like it's from the 1980s. It's the bar where you order a Negroamaro instead of an Aperol spritz - because the landlady says: "It's better anyway". It's the authenticity, not the glossy brochure.

• The big pasta quiz: Can you recognise all the pasta?
• 10 basics so you don't stand out in the restaurant

Ad

🏖️💶 Travelling safely on the beach:
Looks like sun cream, but is a clever hiding place for keys, cash or small valuables! Ideal for relaxed days at the beach in Italy. ➔ [Discover the money stash at Amazon here]