From our editorial team
Naples - An evening in the middle of the week, shortly before midnight in the Porto neighbourhood. All the pubs in the street are deserted or have already switched off the lights. Cars are parked in the second row in front of "Il Ciottolo" and all the tables are occupied, the noise level is as if something is for free. The first late-night restaurant in Naples - founded in 1989 - serves calorie bombs late at night.
When hunger strikes at night in southern Italy, it's often sweet. Instead of kebabs or chips, there are cornetto, tarts and other snacks. If you eat at "Il Ciottolo" in Naples, you'll find the atomic bombs among the tartlets at midnight. The restaurant opens at 7 pm and closes at 6 am. The pastry chef interprets well-known sweets such as those from "Ferrero" or "Nestlé" in XXL slices, croissants and dough balls. One portion is enough dessert for a family of four.
Where everyone comes together at night in Naples
In Naples, the art of pasticceria (confectionery) has a long tradition and is deeply rooted in the local culture. Neapolitan desserts such as sfogliatelle, babà and pastiera have historical roots. On social media, "Il Ciottolo" has become an insider tip across the country: More than 95,000 follow it on Instagram, more than 100,000 on TikTok. In addition to the "Dulcesss", there is also "Salato", a savoury dish, but very few people want that.
An evening at "Il Ciottollo" is Italy live, classless and ageless: the granddaughter sits here with her disabled grandparents, night owls who still want to experience something, a group of work colleagues finishing work and family fathers running frantically with large trays to the waiting car. The outdoor terrace is so crowded that an alternative area has been set up two houses away.
You can't get any sweeter at midnight
The madhouse takes place inside in the sales room. The "Salato" counter is relatively empty, but in front of the sweet counter the crowd is going wild, unafraid of the estimated 3000 calories per portion. Those who want to place their order push back and forth with those who want to see what's on offer first. In fact, there is a small army working behind the counter and the waiting time is short.
There is no such thing as "too much" at "Ciottolo", freshly baked buns with melted "Kinder Buenos", warm chocolate and pistachio sauce - no problem. A cake filled and topped with "Kinder" or "Lotus" biscuits, with lots of sticky sauce on top, is also possible. But in the end, not much works: every bite is an explosion of flavour, but so powerful.
An evening at "Il Ciottolo" is Neapolitan life up close: definitely worth seeing - and if you're already there, you can also try a slice...
- Address: Via Amerigo Vespucci, 90/92 80142 Naples (in the Porto district)
- Opening hoursdaily 7 pm to 6 am
- Il Ciottolo on Instagram
- Price factorThe prices are absolutely okay for the huge portion, a slice of XL cake, for example, costs 5.50 euros.
Want to find out more about Italy's south - did you know that in Puglia more than 60 million olive trees or that the Naples underground is one of the most spectacular in the world?
