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Florence is an open-air museum, but the true masterpiece does not unfold in the Uffizi, but in the open air.
If you want to understand the capital of Tuscany in all its splendour, you have to see it from above. The most magical place for this is undoubtedly Piazzale Michelangelo. But this world-famous view comes at a price: a steep 20-minute walk.
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An ascent through San Niccolò
The route usually begins on the banks of the Arno, down in the charming neighbourhood of San Niccolò. From the old city gates, partly hidden stone steps wind their way - the Ramp del Poggi - up towards the hills of Oltrarno. Especially in the summer months, this climb makes you break out in a sweat. But the higher you climb, the quieter the noise of the city becomes and the wider the panorama opens up.
Once at the top, you enter a huge panoramic terrace. The square is not a historical relic of the Renaissance, but is relatively young: it was designed by architect Giuseppe Poggi in 1869. At that time, Florence had been the capital of Italy for a few years and was experiencing a phase of modern reorganisation. Poggi dedicated the complex to the genius of Michelangelo - hence the green bronze copy of his famous statue of David in the centre of the square.
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„The evening spectacle on the stone steps
However, very few visitors have eyes for the statue in the late afternoon. They come for the spectacle that takes place every evening on the wide stone steps below the terrace. As soon as the sun goes down, the big „pack watching“ begins here. Hundreds of people from all over the world gather.
The atmosphere is electrifying and relaxed at the same time: street musicians play soft guitars, students sit close together on the stone warmed up by the day, couples share snacks they have brought with them. There is a buzz of international voices, while the setting sun bathes the terracotta roofs, Brunelleschi's mighty cathedral dome and the lazily flowing Arno in an unreal gold.
Piazzale Michelangelo is not an insider tip. But when the sun finally disappears behind the Tuscan hills and spontaneous applause breaks out on the steps, you can feel La Bella Vita at that very moment.
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Tips for pack watching
- Buy yourself a bottle of wine down in the city and something to go with it. Schiacciata (the typical Florentine flatbread). The prices at the kiosks at the top of the square are reasonable.
- Be there at least an hour before sunset to secure a seat on the steps.
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