The view of Florence from Piazzale Michelangelo
Despite its global fame, Florence has remained a vibrant city - with a self-image that oscillates between pride and nonchalance. Here are ten things you should know about Florence - for anyone who wants more than just a snapshot on the Ponte Vecchio.
Today, Florence has a population of around 370,000 - but over 10 million people visit the city every year. There is hardly any other city in Europe where so many world-famous works of art are concentrated in such a small space. More than 1,500 works hang in the Uffizi Gallery alone, including Botticelli's "Birth of Venus" and da Vinci's "Annunciation".
1 Florence was once the capital of Italy
For a brief interlude of six years (1865-1871), Florence was the capital of the young Kingdom of Italy. It then moved to Rome - but the pride remained. And the magnificent buildings that were erected during this time also remained.
2. the cradle of the Renaissance - and that's no empty phrase
Brunelleschi, Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo - they all worked here. Florence was the Silicon Valley of art in the 15th century. Anyone walking through the Uffizi today is strolling through the early history of Europe reimagined in oil and marble.
3. the Duomo of Florence is an architectural wonder
The dome of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore was a technical mystery in the 15th century - built without scaffolding by a man who was not a classical architect but a trained goldsmith. Brunelleschi not only dominated the city, but also the thinking of his time. To this day, the cathedral is the heart of the city - visually and acoustically, as its bells ring out into the olive groves of the hills.
4 Florence can be exhausting - and that's exactly what the locals love about it
Narrow alleyways, crowds of people, summer heat. If you find yourself sweating in Via dei Calzaiuoli at lunchtime, you probably understand the Florentine art of living: take refuge in the shade, take your time and never order a coffee-to-go. Florence is not for those in a hurry.
5. the food: simple, hearty - and full of history
"Cucina povera" means here: Bread soup (ribollita), cooked beef stomach (lampredotto) and the famous bistecca alla fiorentina - a steak thicker than your forearm. The best Florence experience? In a small trattoria, where the tables wobble and the landlady fills your glass without asking.
6. the city is an open-air museum - with real patina
You don't have to go to the Uffizi Gallery to see great art. Just a walk from San Lorenzo across Piazza della Signoria to Ponte Vecchio is like a rush in stone. And you'll meet more pigeons than tour guides.
7 Florence smells - and that's a good thing
Leather, espresso, roasted chestnuts in autumn, wisteria in spring - Florence is a feast for the nose. The city of scents was already a centre for perfumers in the Middle Ages, and today you can find soaps and fragrances in small boutiques that have been made according to the same recipes for centuries.
8 Florence has its own language - and attitude
The Florentine dialect was the basis for modern Italian. Dante made it literary, Machiavelli made it political, and the Florentines still use it today with a wink. They love to be ironic - often in a way that you only understand on second listening.
9. the city is alive even after sunset
When the day tourists disappear, Florence shows its true colours. Then the Florentines sit on the steps of the churches, drink aperitifs in Piazza Santo Spirito or party on roof terraces above the rooftops of the old town. The city doesn't sleep - it just dreams louder.
10 Florence is changing - but with dignity
Of course, Florence also has Airbnb problems, souvenir shops and selfie sticks. But Florence has character. It is not a city that bends over backwards to please. If you approach it slowly, openly and respectfully, you will be rewarded - with moments that you can't share on Instagram.
