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Simple ingredients, great effect - cucina povera, or "poor cuisine", has never been an indictment of poverty. On the contrary: it is a masterpiece of Italian culinary culture. And today it is more in demand than ever.
It is a culinary irony of history: What used to be served as a "makeshift solution" now adorns the menus of upscale restaurants in Rome, New York and Tokyo. Today, cucina povera dishes - literally translated as "cuisine of the poor" - are considered prime examples of sustainable enjoyment, depth of flavour and regional authenticity.
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Unlike in many other countries, poverty in Italy was never synonymous with culinary unkindness. Even those who had hardly anything attached importance to freshness, to flavours, to the principle: if little - then at least good. The reason for this also lies in the structure of the country: Italy was an agricultural country until well into the 20th century, with strong local roots and a farming population that relied on its own harvest - and on creativity in cooking.
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Nothing was thrown away, but many things were refined. Leftover bread became panzanella or pappa al pomodoro, hard olives and wild herbs were turned into flavoursome side dishes, leftover corn became polenta. And the seemingly simplest ingredient - a piece of garlic - became the starring role in aglio e olio in a pan with oil. Food was not an accessory, but an art of survival with style.
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More InformationThe difference to other kitchens
In contrast to many other European countries, where poverty was often equated with bland pastries, porridge or watery soup, a culinary subculture developed in Italy that was simple but never dull. The high value placed on food - even in difficult times - is deeply rooted in the culture. People ate together, celebrated the little they had and used their imagination to spice things up when ingredients were in short supply.
What's more, Italian cuisine was regionally characterised from the very beginning. In other words, people cooked what the landscape had to offer. In Calabria there were chilli peppers and dried pork, in Liguria wild fennel, in Tuscany beans and dark bread. Each region developed its own techniques for preserving, enhancing or surprisingly combining food.
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Celebrated today, underestimated in the past
What used to have the reputation of being "only for poor people" has now made the leap into the gourmet world - not despite, but because of its simplicity. Because in times of abundance, globalisation and food waste, many people long for clarity, origin and taste without frippery.
The return to the cucina povera stands for more than just nostalgia. It is an expression of a new culinary awareness. Slow food instead of fast food. Appreciation instead of waste. And it fits in perfectly with today's food trends: seasonal, vegetarian, sustainable.
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Five dishes from the "poor kitchen" that are cult today
1st Ribollita (Tuscany):
A hearty stew made from white cabbage, beans, stale bread and vegetables. "Cooked twice" - because it tastes even better the next day.
2. pasta e ceci (central Italy):
Chickpeas with pasta - often with rosemary, garlic and a hint of tomato. Simple, filling and deeply flavoured.
3. frittata di pasta (Naples):
A fried "pasta pan" made from leftover spaghetti, eggs and cheese. A classic Neapolitan dish that utilises leftovers.
4th Acquacotta (Maremma, southern Tuscany):
A "cooked broth" made from water, vegetables, stale bread and a poached egg - that's all you need for happiness in a spoon.
5. cicerchie with olive oil (central Italy):
Cicerchie, an ancient legume, also known as sweet pea, almost forgotten, now rediscovered. Cooked with oil, salt, pepper and sometimes onions - pure and healthy.
