Autumn magic over Venice
From our editorial team
When the fog covers the canals, Venice changes. The familiar blue of the sky disappears, the contours of the palazzi dissolve and suddenly there is a tranquillity that would be unthinkable in summer.
No crowds of people on the bridges, no babble of voices on St Mark's Square - just the gentle sound of the waves crashing against the piles and the distant ringing of a church bell.
The time of the "calma"
The Venetians simply call these months "la calma" - tranquillity. It begins in autumn, when the humid air carries the scent of sea and stone. In the early hours of the morning, fog lies over St Mark's Square, the columns of the Doge's Palace blur and the façades look as if they have been painted. It is a different Venice, quieter, almost intimate. If you walk through the alleyways now, you can hear your own footsteps again - and the muted echo of the city, which is finally allowed to breathe.
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The classic lanterns of Venice in autumn light The flood bridges are ready in the alleys at the end of the year. A wonderful magic over the city in October The water is more turbulent than in summer There is a magic about the city, especially in the morning The tourist crowds are gone Pure autumn magic in Venice
A Venice without a backdrop
When the flow of tourists dries up, the lagoon city reveals its true character. In the bars around Campo Santa Margherita, the locals stand crowded at the counter, drinking their espresso and talking about the weather, the water and life. Seats are free again on the vaporetto lines and the fish market smells of sea and salt.
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Out and about in Venice in autumn
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More InformationWhen fog and water merge
On windless days, the boundary between the sky and the lagoon seems to disappear. The mist covers the city like a silky veil, muffling every sound and transforming the light into silvery shades. If you take an early morning stroll through Dorsoduro, you will see gondolas emerging from the mist as if they came from another time. It is this ephemeral beauty that makes winter in Venice so unmistakable.
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Culinary consolation
The cuisine adapts to the rhythm of the season: risotto with black ink, creamy polenta with stockfish, chestnut cake and a glass of red wine from Valpolicella. The pots are steaming in the old osterias, and even the simplest plate seems like a declaration of love for life. The fog outside makes the light inside even warmer - and every meal a small celebration.
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When the water comes
The water can rise in Venice at the end of the year. November is usually the wettest month. The famous acqua alta is as much a part of winter in Venice as the fog itself. Those who are prepared can take it in their stride: A pair of wellies, a dry sense of humour, footbridges are everywhere for pedestrians anyway and the high water becomes part of everyday life. When the tide recedes, the city glistens in the clear afternoon light as if someone has given it a fresh polish.
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A Venice for insiders
Venice in the mist is not a place for those in a hurry. It is a city for those who recognise beauty without the sun. Those who experience the lagoon city at this time of year do not see the Venice of the high season, but the real thing: vulnerable, poetic - and a lasting memory.
