Harvesting olives by hand Photo: Photo by Gianpiero Ferraro on Pexels.com
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Anyone who is there understands why the harvest is a celebration here: when the olives ripen in Italy, a time between labour and magic begins.
It's the moment when Italy smells different. When the days get shorter and the sun is lower over the hills, the olive season begins. In the valleys of Umbria, in the Tuscan Maremma or among the old trees of Apulia, you can hear the rustling of the nets, the rattling of the baskets - and sometimes the quiet hum of the oil mills working day and night.
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The rhythm of the harvest
Depending on the region, the harvest starts between mid-October and early December. In Tuscany and Umbria, the first fruits are usually ripe early, while in the south - in Apulia, Calabria or Sicily - the harvest lasts until Advent. The olives are usually picked by hand or with fine vibrating machines before they turn completely dark. This keeps their oil fruity, intense and with that characteristic, slightly peppery flavour that connoisseurs love.
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The first oil
The freshly pressed olio nuovo has an almost bright green colour and tastes of artichoke, almonds and herbs. Unfiltered, cloudy and strong - it comes straight from the press to the table. In the frantoitraditional oil mills, you can often taste it straight from the bread. An experience that lies somewhere between everyday farming life and a quiet ritual.
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Places where you can be there
Anyone experiencing autumn in Italy should visit the frantoi aperti open mills that open their doors to visitors. In Umbria in particular, around Spoleto or Trevi, you can see the presses in action. In Tuscany, small estates invite you to taste their produce, while in Apulia, entire family-run farms allow guests to help with the harvest - from picking to tasting in the evening.
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A celebration for the new oil
The first oil of the year is celebrated like a good wine. In Reggello near Florence, every year in mid-October, the Festa dell'Olio Novo in Umbria the Frantoi Aperti (from mid-October to mid-November). There it smells of bread, wine and freshly pressed oil - and you understand why Italy sees olive oil not just as a product, but as a culture.
Anyone travelling through the country in October or November should stop when they see a sign with "frantoio aperto" sees. Behind it is not a museum, but a piece of living harvest time.
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