The fascination of Capri - and what really lies behind it

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From our editorial team

Capri is an island where the light falls differently - where even shadows have a decorative effect. No other island stands for longing and beauty like this - why is that?

Capri is a myth of light, limestone, bougainvillea and history. Since ancient times, it has seduced emperors, artists and cinema stars with its aura - somewhere between dramatic nature, Mediterranean lightness and cosmopolitan aura Campania. What makes this island in the Gulf of Naples really off?

Capri to click through

1. the Blue Grotto: entry into the unreal

It's a paradoxical spectacle: you duck through a tiny hole in the rock and end up in what is probably the most expensive and beautiful dark blue in Europe. The "Grotta Azzurra" is not just a cave: it is a legend - even among the ancient Romans. The international breakthrough came in the 19th century when the German painter August Kopisch captured the blue grotto on canvas. The flow of tourists has grown steadily since then. Yes, it is overcrowded. And yes, it's kitschy. But it is also magnificent.

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2. tiberius was there first

Capri was more than just a retreat. It was the seat of government for the Roman emperor Tiberius. Between 27 and 37 AD, he is said to have had up to twelve villas built here, including the Villa Jovis, which sits impressively on a rocky plateau in the east of the island. It is considered one of the best-preserved Roman buildings in southern Italy. Tiberius ruled the Roman Empire from here - far removed from the intrigues and power games in Rome. The ruins tell of baths, cisterns and palace halls.

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3. the Faraglioni, the famous rocks

The high rock needles off the coast are called "faraglione", which means lighthouse (derived from the Greek word pharos = beacon). In ancient times, exposed rocks were often lit by fire to help sailors find their way.

At 109 metres, the largest rock is called "Faraglione di Terra", which means "lighthouse facing the island" or "Stella", star. The middle rock is called Faraglione di Mezzo (mezzo = centre). It has a 60 metre long tunnel at sea level that can be crossed by small boats. The outer rock, "Faraglione di Fuori" is also called "Scolopolo", cliff. The trio are limestone sculptures formed by erosion.

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Amalfi Coast unfiltered

4. artists, eccentrics and great works

Capri has always been a magnet for people who either had a lot to say - or simply wanted peace and quiet. Painters, writers and bohemians settled here as early as the 19th century. The British author Norman Douglas (†1952) wrote his best-known novel "South Wind" here. The eccentric writer Curzio Malaparte (†1957) built Casa Malaparte above the cliffs of Punta Masullo - despite an official building ban.

Rainer Maria Rilke ("Song of the Sea") was also inspired by Capri, and the writer Monika Mann lived here with a fisherman. From 1907 to 1913, the writer Maxim Gorky devoted himself to his Russian and revolutionary studies on Capri (he also wrote "A Confession" here). In 1951, Jean-Paul Sartre also travelled to the island of longing on a trip to Italy ("Queen Albemarle or The Last Tourist") - as did many other great artists.

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5 The landscape is the stage

Capri's nature is not just a backdrop - it is a stage. Steep cliffs, covered in agaves, pines and oleanders, fall vertically into the sea in places. Anyone travelling up to Monte Solaro - by chairlift or on foot - will be rewarded with a breathtaking view over the island and the mainland. The Arco Naturale, a natural stone arch on the east coast, bears witness to the geological forces that formed Capri. Away from the tourist trails, you can discover the wilder side of the island on old mule tracks.

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6. the Piazzetta - espresso with a view of everything

The Piazzetta, officially known as "Piazza Umberto I", is the heart of Capri town - and also its most famous meeting place. The Piazzetta is Capri's living room, shop window and catwalk all in one. The backdrop: small bars with silver trays, a time-honoured church and a view of the alleyways. Nothing happens here - and that is precisely the event.

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7 Glamour - not only in retrospect

Capri was jet set when the word was still written on a typewriter. Liz Taylor (†2011), Brigitte Bardot, Sophia Loren - they all came and stayed a little longer. The magic has remained. Jennifer Lopez is one of the stylish regulars in summer.

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