Street flair in the south of Naples: travelling on two wheels
From our editorial team
Anyone travelling to southern Italy comes for the sun, the sea and the Food. What people often don't say: you stay because of the feeling. Because here, where life is a little louder, warmer and wilder, the clocks tick differently - and sometimes not at all.
Everything is a little slower, but at the same time more intense. Many things are not entirely logical, but still make sense. Southern Italy does not explain itself. It just happens. And if you're not careful, you'll fall in love faster than you can say "Un caffè, grazie". Here are ten things you'd better know in advance - so you're not surprised when you suddenly feel at home.
1. the caffè is not a drink - it is a ritual
Espresso is not drunk, it is celebrated. Standing up, at the bar, with a quick greeting and an even quicker sip. Cappuccino after 11 o'clock? Unthinkable. That's considered barbaric. Anyone who takes longer than three minutes is a tourist - or socialised in northern Italy.
Tip: Just say "Un caffè, per favore" - smile - and enjoy the moment.
2. time is relative - especially here
A meeting at 6 pm? That actually means between 6.15pm and 6.45pm. If you're on time, you're on your own. Nobody apologises for this. The bus also arrives when it does. Dinner drags on for hours. The landlord calls "right back" - and gets back to us in a week. But there are good conversations and no stress.
Tip: Bring patience. Or a good book. Or even better: a second glass of wine. And a flexible schedule.
3. traffic regulations are guidelines - not laws
Traffic lights? Recommendations. Zebra crossings? Decoration. If you honk, you live. Those who don't honk are overlooked. And yet - somehow everything works. The traffic is a flowing, wild coexistence that is more reminiscent of improvisation theatre than driving school logic. Pedestrians move with courageous self-confidence through rolling columns of cars, scooter riders fit through everywhere - even where physics says it's not possible. And when you think: "That was close" - someone next to you just shrugs their shoulders.
Tip: If you are driving yourself: Stay calm. If you are a passenger - close your eyes and keep going.
4. the Nonna is omnipresent - and omniscient
Whether you're hungry, heartbroken or just looking lost: the southern Italian grandmother is there. With advice, stories and at least one Tupperware full of food. She knows what you need before you know it yourself - and she heals with pasta.
Tip: Never say you're full. Really - never.
5. sunglasses are not an accessory - they are identity
In southern Italy, sunglasses are always worn: in the sun, in clouds, in the shade, at night (some say: even when sleeping). They not only protect the eyes, but also the posture. If you don't wear sunglasses, you immediately look suspicious - or like someone who doesn't have their daily form under control.
Tip: Better pack two. For the style. And just in case.
6 The siesta is not a cliché - it's the law
The world stands still between 1 and 5 pm. Shops closed, streets empty, doors shut. Only the cicadas make any noise. The heat hangs in the air like an invisible wall, and even the cats only move when they absolutely have to. Anyone who wants to do something during this time is considered careless or simply clueless. The siesta is not a sign of laziness - it is cultural wisdom, accepted and valued across generations.
Tip: Change your plans. Let yourself drift. And yes: a siesta is absolutely allowed - and advisable.
7. family is everything - and always there
A meal with twelve people, three generations and five starters is not an event - it's Tuesday. People talk loudly, laugh a lot, have heated discussions - but everyone still ends up hugging each other. And while you're eating, you're already talking about the next meal: what's on the menu tomorrow, who's cooking it and why Nonna makes her polpette differently to Zia Maria.
Tip: Be open, be hungry - and be prepared to learn the names of all the aunties.
8. beach means company, not silence
If you want peace and quiet, it's better to find a secluded bay. The typical beach is noisy: music, children, a babble of voices. Plus the smell of sun cream, sandwiches and the sea. And: you don't come with a towel and a book - you come with half a household. Chairs, tables, parasols, cool bags, sometimes even a gas cooker. The beach is not an excursion, the beach is a daily programme.
Tip: Put your mobile phone away. And just listen. That's what life sounds like.
9. communication knows no age limit - and no break
In southern Italy, everyone is talking - everywhere. On the street, from the balcony, on the bus, on WhatsApp, on TikTok. And yes, even Nonna is now online. Whether it's about the weather, the best baker or the latest gossip - everyone shares it, live and with passion. Silence is suspect here. Communication is a basic need.
Tip: Listen carefully. And if you dare: answer.
10. you will fall in love - whether you like it or not
In the light that falls through the alleyways. In the saltiness of the air. In the moment when someone simply shouts "Benvenuto!" at you. Southern Italy is not perfect - but it feels that way. You'll fall in love with the sounds of the early morning, the smell of tomato sauce wafting from open kitchen windows, the smile of a stranger who gives you directions even though you didn't ask. Maybe you won't even realise it - until you're back home and long for exactly this disorder with a soul.
Tip: Get involved. And above all: come back.
