Black truffle, freshly dug up Photo: stock.adobe.com/Sofia Royo
From our editorial team
In Italy, the most important season of the year for gourmets begins in autumn. From Alba to San Miniato, everything revolves around truffles - rare, sought-after and expensive.
The season runs from September to November, when the soil is moist and the nights are cool. During this time, truffle markets and festivals are held in several regions of Italy - most notably the fair in Alba in Piedmontwhich is considered the largest in the world. White and black varieties are auctioned, tasted and awarded prizes there - a business that turns over hundreds of millions of euros every year and yet remains firmly anchored in regional tradition.
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The search
The tartufai - licenced truffle hunters - head out into the woods early in the morning with trained sniffer dogs. Truffles thrive in calcareous, loose soil and favour sparse mixed forests with oak, hazel or poplar trees as symbiotic partners. The tubers grow several centimetres deep underground and only give themselves away through their fine smell, which the dogs sniff out. In many regions, visitors can take part in guided truffle hunts and experience the work of the hunters at close quarters.
Alba and Piedmont
Piedmont is the stronghold of the white truffle. The peak season begins in October around Alba, Monforte d'Alba and La Morra. The best finds are presented, valued and traded at the market in Alba - often at prices of several thousand euros per kilo. The white truffles of the Langhe are considered to be the finest in Italy.
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Photo: stock.adobe.com/marysckin
Umbria - home of the black truffle
The black truffle grows in Umbria, particularly around Norcia and Spoleto. Its flavour is strong and earthy, ideal for simple dishes such as pasta, eggs or meat. In autumn, many villages hold markets where farmers, chefs and traders come together.
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Tuscany - San Miniato and the hills
Between Pisa and Florence lies San Miniato, one of the most important regions for the fine white truffle. In November, the town is transformed into a marketplace for gourmets when the "Mostra Mercato Nazionale del Tartufo Bianco" takes place. Black truffles are also found around Volterra, Montaione and San Giovanni d'Asso (near Montalcino) in winter.
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Marche, Emilia-Romagna and Abruzzo
Acqualagna in the Brands is one of the few places where truffles grow almost all year round. Autumn brings the white truffle, winter the black truffle. Many families have lived from the trade and small factories producing truffle products for generations. In the hills around Bologna and Modena, the "Tartufesta" is celebrated in November. A little further south in Abruzzo, between L'Aquila and Gran Sasso, truffles thrive in calcareous, well-aerated soils with moderate humidity, as well as in the small neighbouring region of Molise, especially around San Pietro Avellana.
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Rules and licences
Truffle hunting is strictly regulated in Italy. Anyone who wants to collect truffles needs a licence (Tesserino), which is awarded by the regions. It stipulates collection times, equipment and minimum age. Searching is only permitted in authorised forests and designated areas. Fines may be imposed without authorisation.
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