Three letters that can be really expensive in Italy: ZTL

The old town centre in Gallipoli: would you have paid attention to the sign?

From of our editorial team

In Bellagio, almost one million euros was earned in 2024 just from parking tickets - from a town with 3,591 inhabitants. Welcome to the ZTL.

Three letters, one principle: if you miss them, you pay. ZTL - the "zona a traffico limitato" - regulates traffic in many Italian cities, especially where it is beautiful. And where it's easy for strangers to take the wrong turn.

• What is a ZTL anyway?
• Case study: Bellagio on Lake Como
• ZTL: Three letters with consequences
• Which city hands out the most parking tickets?
• How to protect yourself from the ZTL trap

What is a ZTL anyway

An Italian invention that brings every navigation system to its knees - and can quickly cost a few hundred euros. ZTL stands for "Zona a Traffico Limitato", i.e. a traffic-calmed zone, usually in the centre of Italian cities. You can only enter these zones with authorisation - as a resident, delivery driver, emergency vehicle or magical creature with special permission. For everyone else: A fine. Automatic. Camera-controlled. Without pity.

There are over 350 such zones throughout Italy. They protect the historic city centres, keep traffic out and - if you want to be cynical - finance half the municipal budgets.

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Case study: Bellagio on Lake Como

The best proof is provided by a place that looks like paradise, but is a pretty hellish money trap: Bellagio on Lake Como. Just 3,591 inhabitants, but almost one million euros in ZTL fines collected in 2024. More precisely: 966,000 euros. More per capita than in Milan. Only with a camera eye and the innocent hope of tourists to "just pop in".

According to Mayor Angelo Barindelli, everything is correctly signposted, as Italian media report: It is not a tourist trap. There is definitely a sign. Whether you recognise it while you're negotiating your way between cobblestones and narrow bends in a rented Fiat 500 is another question.

ZTL: Three letters with consequences

It's simple: the camera scans the licence plate. If it's not on the permitted list - bang, parking ticket. The good news: if you pay straight away, you get a 30 % discount. The bad news: even with a discount, ZTL offences often cost over 90 euros, plus administrative fees. A quick wrong turn can be as expensive as a day trip on a private boat.

Particularly nasty: if you get lost or drive in circles, you won't be charged once, but several times. If you accidentally drive into the zone three or four times - for example when desperately looking for a parking space or because the sat nav loses track - it can easily cost 500 euros.

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Who hands out the most parking tickets?

Right at the front: Milan with 204 million euros in traffic fines in 2024, followed by Rome with 145.8 million, then Florence 61.6 million. But small municipalities also hit the mark: Carrodano (Liguria) collected 807,000 euros - with 465 inhabitants.

And Colle Santa Lucia in the Dolomites managed 671,000 euros with not even 350 souls. Some people are already asking themselves: is this still traffic management or already a local business model?

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How to protect yourself from the ZTL trap

Before your holiday in Italy: Be careful when choosing your accommodation: Is it in the ZTL? If so, ask for a transit permit beforehand. People with a disability pass can also obtain this from the local authority. And otherwise? Navigation: it's better to switch to "Avoid ZTL". And maybe just turn around if you suddenly see a sign with small, narrow lettering that looks as if it wants to say "locals only". That's exactly what it usually wants to say.

More information on the ZTL and other transport issues at the Italian Ministry of Transport

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